If you look at a map of the Big Island, you’ll see two massive mountains dominating the center: Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. For years, the road cutting between them—Saddle Road—was known as a forbidden zone for rental cars. But times have changed!

Today, the Daniel K. Inouye Highway (Saddle Road) is one of the smoothest, most scenic drives in Hawaii. It connects the sunny, lava-strewn coast of Kona with the lush rainforests of Hilo in about 90 minutes. But if you just drive straight through, you’re missing the point. This route takes you from sea level to over 6,000 feet, passing through moon-like lava fields, native forests, and rolling clouds.

Ready to cross the island like a pro? Here is your ultimate day trip itinerary for the Saddle Road experience.

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Before You Go: The Boring (But Critical) Stuff

Driving across the island isn’t like cruising the coast. You are entering a high-altitude environment that feels more like Mars than Hawaii.

• The Rental Car Rule: Most modern rental contracts now allow you to drive on Saddle Road because it is fully paved. However, almost no standard rental contract allows you to drive to the summit of Mauna Kea (the gravel road above the Visitor Center). Don’t risk your insurance!
• Pack for Winter: Seriously. It might be 85°F in Kona, but it can be 50°F (or colder) at the Saddle. Bring a hoodie and long pants.
• Gas Up: There are no gas stations for about 50 miles between Waimea/Waikoloa and Hilo. Leave with a full tank.

Stop 1: Fuel Up with Sugar at Manuela Malasada Co.

You cannot start a Big Island road trip without a malasada (a Portuguese doughnut). Forget the stale ones sitting in a bakery case; you want them fresh and hot.

Located near the junction where you head toward Waimea and the Saddle, Manuela Malasada Co. operates a bright food truck that fries these babies to order. They are denser and chewier than the ones you find in Honolulu, which is perfect for hiking fuel.

• What I order: The Lilikoi (passion fruit) or Bavarian Cream filling.
• Instagram: @manuelamalasadashawaii
• Note: Check their Instagram before you go, as food truck hours can fluctuate.

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A post shared by Manuela Malasada Company (@manuelamalasadashawaii)

Stop 2: Stretch Your Legs at Puʻu Huluhulu

About 28 miles in, you’ll see a large, reddish hill covered in trees sitting right in the middle of a black lava field. This is Puʻu Huluhulu (meaning “Shaggy Hill”).

It’s a kīpuka—an older piece of land that was surrounded by younger lava flows but never covered. Because of this, it’s an oasis of ancient native forest. There’s a hunter check station here with a small parking lot. You can hike the trails up the hill (about 1.3 miles total) for an incredible 360-degree view of both Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa.

• Why stop: It’s one of the best places to spot native Hawaiian birds like the ʻIʻiwi.

Stop 3: The Bathroom Break with a View (Gilbert Kahele Recreation Area)

Just down the road is the Gilbert Kahele Recreation Area (formerly Mauna Kea Rec Area). This isn’t your average rest stop. The county has renovated it to include heated restrooms (a luxury at this altitude!) and a fantastic playground for the keiki (kids) with climbing nets.

If you brought a picnic lunch, this is the place to eat it. The air is crisp, and the fog often rolls through the trees, giving it a spooky, magical vibe.

• Location: Mile Marker 34 on Saddle Road.

Stop 4: Touch the Sky at Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station

Turn onto the Mauna Kea Access Road and climb up to 9,200 feet. The road to the Visitor Information Station (VIS) is paved and safe for all cars.

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This is where you acclimatize. If you get out of the car and feel a little dizzy, that’s the altitude! Take at least 30 minutes here to adjust. You can shop at the First Light Bookstore, learn about the telescopes, and see the rare Mauna Kea Silversword plants (they look like metallic urchins) in the garden.

Important Note: If you want to go higher to the summit (13,796 ft), you need a true 4WD vehicle (not AWD) and nerves of steel. Most visitors are better off taking a guided tour to avoid the rental car restrictions and safety risks.

• Here is my Recommended Tour: Big Island: Mauna Kea Summit and Stars Small-Group Adventure Tour
• Website: https://hilo.hawaii.edu/maunakea/visitor-information/station
• Instagram: @maunakeavis

Stop 5: Into the Dark at Kaumana Caves

As you descend Saddle Road toward Hilo, the landscape shifts dramatically. The moonscape vanishes, replaced by mist and dense rainforest. As you enter the upper residential part of Hilo town, look for the sign for Kaumana Caves State Park.

This isn’t a show cave with lights and ticket booths; it’s a completely free state park that offers a raw look at the island’s geology. It’s a massive lava tube created by an 1881 flow from Mauna Loa that nearly wiped out Hilo. A steep concrete staircase leads you down into a collapsed skylight filled with hanging ferns and vines. You can walk into the tube, but be warned: it is pitch black. Your phone light won’t cut it here—bring a real flashlight if you want to explore deeper than the entrance.

Stop 6: Chasing Myths at Rainbow Falls

Welcome to Hilo! Your first stop in town should be Rainbow Falls (Waiānuenue). This 80-foot waterfall cascades over a lava cave that legend says is home to Hina, the moon goddess.

If you get here on a sunny morning (usually around 10 AM), you’ll see why it’s named Rainbow Falls—the mist creates huge rainbows across the water.

2026 Travel Update: As of January 2026, the state has implemented parking and entrance fees for non-residents at this park (approx. $10 to park + $5 per person). You’ll need a credit card to pay at the kiosk or via QR code.

• Website: https://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/hawaii/wailuku-river-state-park/
• Activity Link: Big Island in a Day-Explore Volcanoes, Waterfalls, Beaches & more – This is my recommended tour to see Rainbow Falls coming from Kona.

Stop 7: Dinner in Historic Hilo

You made it! Hilo has a totally different vibe from Kona—it’s older, greener, and more laid-back. Finish your day with a meal at Pineapples Island Fresh Cuisine. It’s an open-air spot right in downtown Hilo with live music, great drinks, and fresh local ingredients.

• What to try: The Pineapple Pow cocktail and the Fresh Catch.
• Website: Pineapples Hilo

Driving from Kona to Hilo via Saddle Road isn’t just a commute; it’s a journey through the geological soul of the Big Island. In one day, you experience fire (lava fields), ice (Mauna Kea snow), and water (rainforests and falls).

We hope this guide helps you get off the resort property and explore the wild beauty of the Big Island.

Read Next on Kona Travels:

• Since you are already in Hilo, you are on the doorstep of the National Park. Here is how to see the lava.
• Planning the rest of your week? We have mapped out the perfect 7-day schedule for the Savvy traveller like you.
• Don’t want to do the driving yourself? Check out these top-rated tours that handle the Saddle Road drive for you.

Safe travels and Aloha!